Wednesday 9 September 2009
I’ve spent the past 2 days at a FOB (forward operating base) in far eastern Afghanistan. The flight over was one of the most interesting parts. We actually flew a small, fixed-wing aircraft, which is unusual for this theatre. I should have expected a bit of drama when the goateed, t-shirt wearing Blackwater pilots chuckled as we boarded. Immediately after finding a seat, which was not difficult on this small plane, a bald, 60-year old man with a beard stood in the aisle and said, “Welcome aboard, gentlemen. I’m you’re lovely flight attendant for this hop. It’s taken years of therapy for me to be able to admit that, but I’m finally making the money to pay for the sessions. Buckle up. If I come running down the aisle with what little hair I have on fire and my arms flailing above my head with a panicked look on my face, you two in the back grab the fire extinguisher. I spent 14 years in the Air Force as a loadmaster on a Special Ops C-130 Talon, so I can sure as shit handle this.” He then sat down in the front row and yelled up at the pilots, “Hey, kick it.” They had clearly anticipated the command because the plane was already moving. I had been aboard less than 90 seconds.
After taking off, it occurred to me that the makeshift seatpockets in front of me were filled with barf bags rather than in-flight magazines. The inspiration for the substitution became immediately clear as we bucked and rocked off of the Bagram runway. The arid, dustbowl of a canyon that we occupy became evident, with the square, mud-walled compounds of Afghan houses with their corner turrets visible just outside of the limits of BAF. The scenery looks directly transported out of the 10th century. Only occasional dots of green were evident against the endless, tan landscape. Up ahead, the jagged, brown cliffs of the Hindu Kush reached nearly vertically. Before long, we were bouncing between and around the cliffs, but not above them. It became a little difficult to breathe, and I realized we were not in a pressurized cabin and were probably at about 15,000 feet. The mountains are laced with small trails and dry riverbeds, or wadis. Small, mud-hutted villages are occasionally nestled in the valleys and along the lower faces of the mountains. All of these are connected with steep, narrow, dirt trails. I understand that there is only 1 paved road in Afghanistan, Route 1, which runs from Kabul to Kandahar. It was built by Americans a few years back and is now a flashpoint in the fight against the Taliban.
We landed about 30 minutes and two lifetimes later with the trajectory of a lawn dart. Looking at the mountains of Pakistan from the FOB runway with the sound of the Muslim call to prayer floating over the wire from the nearby village was only strange in that it didn’t really feel strange at all. The sight, sound, and feel of Afghanistan is starting to seem normal. I listened to the thump of nearby helo blades and tried hard to remember the sound of crashing ocean waves.
Up until 45 days ago, this FOB was attacked nearly daily with mortars and rockets. After a U.S. soldier was “kidnapped” by the Taliban, however, command directives changed and the U.S. forces adopted a much more aggressive posture, sending out many more patrols and active hunts for the bad guys. The gloves came off and everyone now feels a bit better. There hasn’t been a rocket attack in 45 days. The E-7 who recounted these sentiments then found a piece of wood to knock on. I also heard an interesting story about the soldier who is missing. The feeling here is that the whole truth hasn’t yet been revealed. I’ll be interested to follow the news on this one.
The funny thing is that the quality of life here is actually better than I have at BAF. The housing is nicer, the latrines are cleaner, and the pace is much slower. BAF is kind of like New York meets Afghanistan Road Warrior. Aircraft, vehicles, and a kaleidoscope of people are moving around 24/7. The sound of helicopter blades and jet aircraft is a constant backdrop. Most noticeably, the ubiquitous dust is absent from this FOB. At BAF, you constantly breathe, swallow, and snort the dust. It covers every surface, fills every crevice, and invades every accessible orifice. Even your teeth feel gritty. I think I’ve swallowed my body weight in Afghan dust over the past few weeks. I could actually see the stars last night at the FOB, a rare treat. The view was helped by the fact that this is a “dark” FOB with no lights allowed at night. Once the sun goes down, the only visible lights are the occasional bobbing red headlight, marking someone’s nighttime trek to the latrine trailors.
The trip back to BAF was much less eventful, although the same lovely flight attendant was again present. Without the thermals rocking us around, I could see that the mountains were stunningly beautiful shades of red and brown, sprinkled with sparse evergreens. Landing back at BAF, I reminded myself what an improvement this was from Kuwait. Life is good.