Monday, August 31, 2009

Monday 31 August 2009

I suppose that the reason I’m writing this is so that my family and friends can share the feelings, smells, and tastes of being here. Hopefully, many years from now, I’ll also be able to reread this and remember things that I had forgotten.

Because of the constant dust, I always have kind of a dry, chalky taste in my mouth and nose. There isn’t enough water to wash it away and it covers everything, imparting a dull, opaqueness to the buildings, tents, and horizon. The soundtrack to this place, though, is what will stick with me. It is the sound of laughter. Despite the obvious challenges of being here, you hear laughter nearly everywhere you go. People laugh at themselves, at each other, at the discomfort, at ridiculousness, at situations they might never have imagined. They laugh at the Sergeant Major who runs down the main drag every morning from 0500-0700 flanked by two henchmen in complementary t-shirt colors, sending them out on missions to correct errant runners who may have committed the cardinal sins of wearing their reflective belts too loosely around their waists, or God forbid, their sunglasses prior to 0730 (when sunglasses are authorized). Anyone sporting a beard, of course, is immune from prosecution. They chuckle at the young priest with the flattop, who looks as capable of removing someone from this world as he is of preparing them for the next. Then, they’re moved to laughing tears as he tells the story of missing his younger brother with Down’s Syndrome, because he is a better person when his brother is around. The brother isn’t jealous, or boastful, or vindictive. He does, however, apparently have a slight stealing issue.

Hindu Kush Mountains


Bagram is surrounded on the west, north, and east sides by the Hindu Kush Mountains in a sort of horseshoe shape. Kabul lies about 20 km to the south. Due to the constant dust in the valley from the vehicles, aircraft, and personnel, it's been difficult to see the mountains clearly. I understand that soon the mountains will become snow-covered and much more clear.

The dust picks up in the afternoons along with the winds. A dry, chalky smell and taste is ever-present.

I've posted a picture of "The meat shack," the most famous of the dining options here at Bagram. They actually serve barbecue ribs, burgers, and pretty good grilled chicken. The tent has picnic tables and pies for dessert. It's not the Salt Lick outside of Austin, but it sure is a nice change of pace. You can almost convince yourself that you're back in the States, except for all of the weapons inside, of course. I think they won an honorable mention for landscaping from the Garden Club of Afghanistan.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Sunday 30 August 2009

Sunday morning, Groundhog Day. Sunday is Tuesday is Friday. I went to the gym early this morning and watched the potpourri of soldiers, contractors and “shadow warriors” in their beards and ballcaps. Disclaimer- I have the utmost respect for our nation’s secret warriors- Special Forces, CIA, etc. It does however, intrigue me to see the legions of white guys with short hair, full beards, and UT Longhorn baseball caps trucking around in Land Cruisers, looking a bit like rogue Amish Dutch. Now in 2001, that was probably a pretty good disguise. I mean, people probably bought that they were a University of Oregon student on a walkabout for some good hash who just happened to be carrying several automatic weapons. In 2009, not so muich. By the way, yes, Mom, I’m going to mass.